I am currently writing this sitting on the rooftop to my private riad, a little house in the middle of the old Medina that I rented for the month. Knowing that I needed to write this article today versus exploring the city, I knew I needed to get supplies to be able to focus. So, before sitting down, I took a walk through my neighborhood to get a big bottle of water and a latte (all of which costs me 20 dirhams or $2). As I walked out of my riad, an old Moroccan woman who was sitting on a wooden stool looked up at me and smiled saying, “Bonjour! French?” She could clearly see that I was not from here. “Bonjour! No, no, American!” ” Ahh,” she replied, trying to greet me with the little English she knew, “Welcome!” I then tried to meet her with the little French that I knew, “Merci!” I smiled back and continued on my way. I had to drop off my trash down the street before I visited the cafè, as I walked, I passed a man sitting on the ground wearing typical Arabic clothing, he smiled at me and nodded, clearly being friendly. I nodded and smiled back. These are often the small exchanges that make me know I will be visiting Morocco again soon. I quickly get my coffee and my water and I head back to my house to write. As I do, a bunch of young boys are playing kickball in the street. I think they do this often because they have very little else to play with. No matter, they always seem to be happy. “Sorry,” one of the boys yells, he was trying to be polite as I walked through them to the back alleyway to my door.
The most common question I get from the people who know I am on this trip (especially females) is: Is it safe? I am here to tell you, Morocco is an extremely safe country to travel in alone, even as a female. I would say that you need to be prepared for several things, the first of which is that you are going to be solicited ALOT. Moroccans make a lot of their income on tourism, so it is important to remember why they are so keen to ask you to purchase their goods. Also, as the souks and the city itself are full of shops that all sell the same things; therefore, they are often in competition with a lot of other people for your money, so not only will they push, but they will also haggle with you for a good price. The second thing to be aware of is that you are probably going to be flirted with quite a bit as a female traveler. However, because of their religious beliefs they will most likely not make you feel uncomfortable because there are strict restrictions for female and male interactions written into their law. A lot of men, after a small conversation, will invite you back to their house to meet family or friends (which seems to be cultural) but I have always declined, remembering that my safety is always number one. However, if I was here with a friend, I would probably most likely go. You always have to gauge the situation for yourself and decide how to proceed. I find meeting out, especially in groups, is a very safe way to meet up with strangers. Last, Moroccans seem to have “local” prices and “tourist” prices. Go to coffee shops and places to eat, or buy needed products, where prices are clearly marked. If you are in the souks, know you can haggle down about 50% (maybe more) from the original asking price. But, if you are ok and aware of these few things, Morocco is absolutely a place to visit! Let me begin to share why….
The FOOD
The food in Morocco is amazing and I have only a tried a bit of what they have to offer. Let’s start with Tagine, a typical Moroccan pot that you can get a variety of meat or vegetables cooked in. Tagine is often served with Moroccan bread and has rich spices of: ginger, paprika, cumin, salt & pepper, and turmeric. If you get a meat dish, it is often served with steamed vegetables or prunes. I cant begin to tell you how good this dish is, and often you can find it being served in local restaurants from anywhere from 30 to 95 dirham, which is about $3-10. Another local favorite is couscous, served again with a variety of meat and/or vegetables. One of my favorite things to eat (and to learn how to make) is Moroccan salads. I believe there are about five typical ones, some made from: peppers, eggplant, cucumber & tomato, & radishes. There are many other dishes here, all of which I cannot divulge on, but trust me- the food in itself is worth the trip.
Shopping at the market is quite cheap, you can get needed fruits and vegetables for the week for about $5-$10, or 50-100 Dirham easily for the week. There are several fresh marketplaces around the city. My local favorite was a square near the Saadian tombs. They also sell fresh eggs, spices, and bread at the market. Meat is sold there, but since it’s left out throughout the day, it’s best to get there early if you want meat. I personally have not bought the meat, because I feel it’s safer (and easier) to eat my meat out. Grocery stores are few, but they offer you a lot of refrigerated and needed home supplies at an inexpensive price if you are staying for longer than a week.
Juice is something that I found to be excellent here. At almost any square or restaurant you go to, fresh squeezed juice is there on offer. The types of juice you can get is unlimited: orange, lemon, ginger, beetroot, banana, mango, apple, cucumber, etc. In the main squares, like Jemaa el-Fnaa, there are juice stands that sell a cup for 15 dirham or $1.50. In local cafes and restaurants juice usually is more like 20 to 45 dirham, or $2-$4.50. My favorite juices here are beetroot with citrus, and banana and milk (a must try). It is no secret that Morocco is HOT, especially in the summer months, so juice is a good way to hydrate while also giving your body electrolytes.
**A quick reminder: when you come here know that the standards for food and the cleanliness of the places serving you are going to be a little different then what you’re probably used to. If I came again, I would first and foremost get a shot for Hepatitis A (the risk is low, but still a risk). Secondly, remember to wash your hands frequently. Third, carry anti-diarrhea medications, like Imodium on you and some probiotics to take daily. Remember your gut is being exposed to new bacteria from the food and water. Also, watch how much local tea you consume as they use tap water (which has been boiled); however, too much can cause issues. I made my coffee and tea at home from bottled water everyday, just to decrease possibilities of getting sick. One day, I made the mistake of using tap water and I paid the price.
The SHOPPING
It is no secret that the souks here are world famous and known for items like: rugs, lanterns, jewelry, tea pots, sandals, and baskets all of which you can buy for pretty inexpensive prices. If you love home goods and like getting things at a bargain, Marrakesh and Morocco is definitely a place you’ll probably want to go in your lifetime. Shop owners in the souks expect you to bargain for the price, so often they start way above what they expect. Your job then, is to go much lower to which you will eventually meet in the middle. If the shop owner is also being stern and staying above the price that you know that you can get it….walk away. The shop owner will almost definitely then say, “Fine, fine….I give it to you for what you’re asking.” 8/10 this will happen. I do have to say though, I have met some amazing craftsman in the souks that I bought off of, some of which I am sure I could have gotten a lower deal. For instance, in Essaouria, I met a woodworker named Omar who sold me a piece of his work which you can either use for holding jewelry (which will be its purpose in my house) or for putting on your bed to hold drinks/remote controls. He was asking for 450 dirham, about $45. I told him that I would walk out of the shop with it for 200, or $20. He accepted right away. I knew I could have probably got him down to 100 dirham, or $10, but to be honest, my father worked with wood and I knew the love and effort he put into making that piece. Asking for so little seemed a little selfish, even though it would have been nice for my pocket. The same thing happened when I went to buy a leather bag made from old rugs (to inevitably tote all the other things I bought in the souks home). The young man explained to me it is his Father’s work, made from old Moroccan rugs that have been repurposed and also fresh Moroccan leather. When you opened the bag, you can see it was handmade, and with love. I haggled him down to $50, but any less than that seemed like I wasn’t appreciating the quality of the work. So, I recommend to everyone to also be fair to the people you are buying from. Reminder: their family and potentially even friends might be living off the money you give them.
Argan Oil is a product that is made and sold here all over the place; because of this, there are many herbalist shops that also sell facial cosmetics such as: hair treatments, lotions, creams, scented perfumes and oils. You can buy these at the souks, but you will notice that all shops in the main centers are run by males. This is the law here. Outside of the main center, you will find female owned cooperatives, a place where women who have been divorced sell products as a team in order to continue to live on their own. In my experience, these places will give you a better deal, as well as actually know what they are selling you. Let’s be honest, men do not know what type of cream or hair oil will work best for you, because they don’t use the products themselves. In addition to this, women should help out other women (as much as we can). The woman who helped me, her name was Selma, she got me to come into her shop by speaking to me in perfect Italian. She then proceeded to tell me that she spoke 12 languages and had 4 degrees to make her living outside of being divorced. She was as sweet as the tea she served me in her shop, and smarter than most people I have come across. She showed me pictures of her two kids, and even invited me over to her house for dinner, saying, “Then you will be my daughter too!”
Another product you will definitely want to buy here: Moroccan soap. They have black African soap that really works at deep cleaning, opening up your pores, diminishing dark spots, and making your skin look firmer and more youthful. I bought one for my body and one for my face. Selma told me to use it four times a week as a mask for my dark spots (caused by many years in the sun) and let me tell you, it’s really been working. Again, you will find lots of shops selling this, but make sure you buy one from a cooperative if you can and one marked “eco certified” or “bio” to know that it is 100% natural.
The PEOPLE
The day that I arrived to Morocco, my Airbnb host, Youseff, met me at my riad and helped carry my bags inside to my room. As he showed me around, my stomach rumbled, as I had just made a 3 and 1/2 hour flight and spent the previous two hours at the airport (which I did not think to eat food). He asked me, “Are you hungry?” “I really am!” I replied, “Do you know where I can go get something quick to bring back to my place?” “Of course, I will take you after I show you around.” “No, no,” I insisted, “Just tell me where to go and I will go myself.” I knew Youssef lived in Casablanca and he waited till late to greet me here in person, meaning he still had an over two hour drive to get home (and during Ramadan). “Nonsense, it’s late and you’re in a new area. Let’s get street food!” And, so we did.
I got here during the very end of Ramadan, for those that do not know, it is a Muslim tradition where they fast during the day from food and water, and only eat and drink after sundown. Now, if you put me in these conditions, I would not be a friendly or happy person. But, every single Moroccan I ran into, was really happy and content. I started to really question what we have been fed in the U.S. about Muslim culture, realizing that there are extremists in every religion; but for the most part, these Muslim people were so extremely kind, generous, and welcoming. They were appreciative if you (even just a little) used their language or got to know their customs, they wanted to share it with the world. As I got to know them better, I realized that it is very hard for them to be able to travel, even to Europe, as visa requirements are usually something out of their reach. Therefore, the exposure that they had to the people in their city was typically going to be how they got to “experience the world outside of their culture.” For this, I always recommend sitting down and talking to the locals you meet. Get their perspectives. Get their stories. Trust me, you will not be mad that you did.
The HASHISH
The first week of traveling here, I was lucky, I had my friend in from LA and she managed to get some THC gummies through the airport in order for us to have some while exploring Morocco. We took a tour to the Atlas Mountains during one of the first days we had arrived, where our tour guide knew that 3 people in or van were all from California. He brought how marijuana is legal in that states, and then he let us know that Morocco is the leading exporter of Hashish around the globe. This was a bit of a shock for me, having been here for only a few days, and seeing everyone in typical Muslim clothes and celebrating Ramadan, I couldn’t believe that these people were also the leading exporter of hashish. As time wen’t on and Ramadan subsided, I began to see that Moroccans as well as being religious, are also kind of relaxed and cool when it comes to having fun. They like to smoke, chill, eat, and talk…just like I do.
When in Essaouria, I decided to book a reservation at a restaurant that I had been eyeing up on Instagram. It was full of color and beautiful Moroccan mosaics, one of the big draws of coming to this country for me. The name of the hotel is Salut Maroc, and I really wanted to see the view from their rooftop restaurant at sunset as well as enjoy some locally prepared fish. I booked my reservation and enjoyed all of the above mentioned things, along with a house band playing local, live music and a bit of Moroccan white wine. As I went to use the bathroom, I met a Moroccan woman living in Paris wearing a New York hat. We immediately began talking and quickly become friends. She mentioned to me she saw me sitting alone and offered me to come join her table where her brother in-law and sister were also dining. I went back upstairs, grabbed my dessert & wine, and brought it to their table. We talked for hours about: politics, culture, travel, relationships, and marijuana. I told them that I had been looking to buy a little but have not been offered. They told me to finish up my wine and invited me over to their hotel to smoke.
I was pretty amazed at several things that night. First, they had a 14 year old daughter who decided to stay at the hotel and opt out of dinner. On meeting her, I was surprised at how mature she was and also brilliant. She was surprised to meet a woman my age who was so independent and liked to travel. But, what was the neatest thing to see was how open her relationship was to both of her parents. They drank (we opened another bottle of wine) and smoked right in front of her, and everyone talked without censoring themselves. Second, the mother rolled some marijuana for us, and was the only one to partake smoking it with me. I was really surprised how strong it was, considering that I am use to both New York and LA grown weed, I figured other places could not compare, but I was wrong. Third, these people liked to party. There was a nightclub attached to their hotel and the plan was to drink a little more, smoke, and then head out to dance. Guys…I didn’t make it. They outdrank and out smoked me, even the Mom. I passed out by the pool and they so kindly helped get me inside into an extra bed, covered me with blankets and let me crash. It by far was one of my favorite nights in Morocco, not just because of the people, but also because of the party that they brought with them. I felt like I was seeing a different side of this country.
Back in Marrakesh, I met a Spanish man living here in Casablanca, Nico. He was here visiting with his Father and Godfather, all of whom came to visit him for the first time. We all met on a rooftop during lunch, I was sitting alone and they sat at the table next to me. After chatting for awhile, he asked me if I wanted to join him later to smoke some hashish and then go to dinner with his family. Of course I accepted as it was a Saturday night, and I had mostly been not going out during my time here. Nico spoke English, Spanish, Arabic, and French. His Godfather spoke Spanish, French, and a tiny bit of English. His Father had a laryngectomy and was unable to communicate using his voice, so often you had to lip read or read his gestures. As I am a speech therapist, these interactions were really near and dear to my heart, the whole thing was an experiment of how to communicate when surrounded by other people, languages, & cultures. We did good though. I am not sure if it was the hashish, but street food that night was also very good. After dinner, Nico and I went to a park in front of a mosque near my riad, and there he rolled another spliff and gave me a little hashish to take home. He told me that smoking in a park (even near a mosque) was much safer than smoking in the streets. He also told me that he invited a Moroccan woman (his friend) to dinner as well, and previously up the rooftop to smoke with us before hand. She accepted but as she entered the rooftop of his hotel, a muslim man stopped them both and reminded her she wasn’t allowed to do that with another man that was not her husband. These are the small juxtapositions you see when it comes to laws & religion vs. how people wish to be able to live here. We talked about this very subject a lot that night, Nico’s Godfather has a PHD in Cultural Sociology and it was fun to pick his mind on everything we were seeing in Morocco.
The moral of the story is: the hashish & marijuana here in Morocco is strong. If you want to find some, just meet good people. Chances are, they won’t charge you either, it’s just a gift here among friends.
The HAMMANs
It is a DIVERSE & CULTURAL experience
***This blog post is under construction.
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